Almost two years of work have gone into the design and development of this control panel to ensure that it works well ergonomically, is safe to use, and includes all the features a brewer could possibly need. Go electric for safe, easy, and enjoyable indoor brewing.
Which control panel is right for me?
- Standard 30A Electric Brewery Control Panel: For producing up to 20 gallons of finished product per batch. A single element is used in both the boil kettle and hot liquor tank.
- 50A Electric Brewery Control Panel for back to back batches: For producing up to 20 gallons of finished product per batch. A single element is used in the boil kettle and hot liquor tank, but both may be run at the same time allowing you to boil one batch while heating water for the next (or for cleaning/heat sanitizing the chiller). For more information see our FAQ: Adapting for a back to back setup.
- 50A control panel for 30+ gallons: For producing more than 30 gallons of finished product per batch or to speed up your brew day by reducing heat times. Perfect for 1-3 bbl pilot systems. Up to two elements are used per kettle with one kettle powered at a time. If you're consistently producing 30 gallons or more, or think you may want to in the future, this is the panel for you. You may use two heating elements for now and add two more in the future. For more information see our FAQ: Adapting for a 30+ gallon setup.
International control panel kits for 220-240V countries (United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, many parts of Europe, etc.) are also available. For more information see our FAQ: Adapting for 220-240V countries.
Our panels may also be run off a single phase of a 208V or 400V 3-phase power grid. Contact us for details.
Control Panel features
The control panel includes all the features a brewer could need. The intent is to not limit the brewer in any way.
- Three PID controllers for precise control and monitoring of kettle temperatures in either Celsius or Fahrenheit (0.5 degree Fahrenheit precision, 0.1 degree Celsius precision).
- Advanced programmable countdown timer with external reset button and non-volatile memory (countdown is remembered during power outages).
- Alarm light and buzzer with separate programmable alarm settings and individual on/off switches for each PID/timer to notify you when:
- Hot liquor has reached strike temperature
- Grain has reached a mash, step, or mashout temperature
- Mash is complete
- Mash-out is complete
- Hot liquor has reached sparge temperature
- Wort is nearing boiling temperature
- Hop additions required
- Boil is complete
- Wort hop stand temperature reached
- Wort chill temperature reached
- Control of heating elements in the Hot Liquor Tank and Boil Kettle with selection switch(es).
- Supports both manual and automatic temperature control in the boil kettle to allow for advanced brewing processes such as hop stands where hops are steeped at specific temperatures for extended duration (not available on dial-type boil controls). This process is used by new popular New England IPA style beers including our own Electric Hop Candy.
- Control of two pumps (one for water, one for wort).
- Volt and amp meters for diagnostics and monitoring power usage.
- Industrial control guards on front door with carrying handles on top and bottom.
- LED pilot lights that last 30,000 hours, no bulbs to replace.
- Permanent industrial panel tags that will never rub or scratch off like silkscreening. Unlike etching ours will never fade and are safe around commonly used brewery cleaners.
- Oversized custom anodized heat sink (parts last longer if they do not run as hot).
- Integrated safe start interlock feature avoid accidental turn-on.
- Industrial grade nylon locking receptacles for cord removal/replacement. No hardwired cords or flimsy molded rubber plugs that are easily damaged and not replaceable.
- Wall mounting hardware and door locking key included.
- Industrial grade components built to last, many USA made.
- Open source design using standard off the shelf industrial parts (no special/proprietary parts) and published wiring diagrams to ensure easy long term serviceability. Designed to be used a lifetime as parts will always be available.
For more information on the usage of the control panel, see our Brew Day: Step by Step article.
Designed with safety in mind
- Keyed power switch (2 keys included).
- Element power is physically disconnected with mechanical relays when elements are set to off (avoids SSR leakage current).
- The safe start interlock feature does not allow the control panel to be powered on if an element or pump switch is in the on position.
- Watertight steel box enclosure.
- Uses parts that adhere to IP54 or IP65 protection rating to protect from dust and water.
- All external cable connectors are locking to avoid accidental disconnects during use.
- Industrial grade nylon receptacles. No hardwired cords or flimsy molded rubber plugs that are easily damaged and not replaceable.
Designed to be used a lifetime
Unlike some commercially available brewing setups, our control panel uses standard off the shelf industrial parts to ensure long term serviceability. There are no special or proprietary parts. There is no custom or patent pending programming. This website also provides you with a comprehensive service manual including a complete parts list and wiring instructions. For more information on why we feel this is important, see our FAQ.
Do the control panels kits include the safe start interlock feature?
Yes. The safe start interlock feature is included in all control panels.
What's included in the DIY kits?
With our kit we ship you the exact parts you need in one big package, all pre-tested and you follow our step by step instructions to assemble. It includes all parts outlined in our Control Panel (Part 1), Control Panel (Part 2), and Control Panel (Safe start interlock) build instructions.
Absolutely everything is included such as the PIDs, timer, switches, meters, panel tags, handles, heat sink, relays, wire, etc. We even include the heat sink grease, and every single screw and nut, as well as the optional extras mentioned in our build instructions such as terminal strip jumpers and ground bars to make building easier. All you need to supply are the tools and follow our instructions. The enclosure is professionally powder coated with an industrial flat textured charcoal/black finish (very similar to Rustoleum Textured Black part 7220) so there is no need to prime or paint. An optional upgrade to have the enclosure pre-punched. The heat sink is pre-tapped.
Purchasing your parts directly from us has the following advantages:
- Save money: Our combined price is LOWER than purchasing the parts yourself and paying for shipping from over a dozen suppliers as we purchase in bulk.
- Save time: No need to order the hundreds of parts yourself from the various suppliers. Click once, pay once!
- Get the right parts: No risk of ordering the wrong part by mistake, no risk of the wrong part being sent by the supplier.
- Parts that are guaranteed to work: We individually test every single part as they come in before they are included in our kits.
- Get better quality parts: Part quality can vary depending on the manufacturer. After years of trying different components to filter out the less desirable ones, we believe that the parts we supply are higher than average quality. Yes, these parts are more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Custom enclosure with less work: Our kit enclosures are custom made for us and result in less work for you. There is no need to move the ground post, no need to seal and sand the bottom cable plate, and no need to prime and paint as the enclosure is already professionally powder coated with an industrial flat textured charcoal/black finish. Also available is an optional upgrade to have the enclosure door, top and bottom pre-punched. (The back plate is not drilled or tapped, allowing you to lay out your parts as you see fit).
When building your own you'll need to supply the following tools:
- GreenLee 36414 1-3/8" step drill bit**
- GreenLee 1/2" conduit punch for making 7/8" (22mm) diameter holes**
- ~45mm (1-3/4") bi-metal hole saw for making ~45mm (1-3/4") diameter holes*/**
- ~51mm (2") bi-metal hole saw for making ~51mm (2") diameter holes*/**
- ~57mm (2-1/4") bi-metal hole saw for making ~57mm (2-1/4") diameter holes*/**
- Hand drill**
- Drill press**
- High speed metal drill bits**
- Jigsaw metal blades**
- Cutting oil
- Metal file
- Tap and die set
- Sharpie permanent marker
- Wire cutter/stripper
- Double ratcheting wire crimper
- 30-40W soldering iron or soldering station
Rosin core solder (60% tin, 40% lead)
- 3/16" high speed metal drill bit
*The hole sizes may vary slightly based on the receptacle brand used. Before cutting, we strongly recommend confirming the hole sizes required for the actual receptacles you will be installing.
**Not required if you choose the upgrade to have the enclosure pre-cut.
Pump outputs: Two NEMA L5-15 (125VAC, 15A) twist lock female receptacles, intended for March, Chugger, Blichmann or similar pumps (max current draw: 1.4 amps each)
Temperature probe inputs: Three low voltage XLR locking female receptacles, intended for use with our temperature probes
Power consumption: 240V / 24 amps max (5760 watts) when powering one 5500W element and two pumps.
Power input: One NEMA L14-30 (125/250VAC, 30A) twist lock male receptacle, intended for use with our 30A power cord and requires a 240V 30 amp single phase service with ground and neutral to operate, such as a dryer outlet found in North American homes.
Heating element outputs: Two NEMA L6-30 (250VAC, 30A) twist lock female receptacles, maximum element power is 5500W.
Weight: Approximately 42 lbs
Dimensions: 18-1/2" H x 16" W x 9-1/8" D (470 x 407 x 232 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (assembled): 23" x 20" x 15" (584 x 508 x 381 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (DIY kit): 17" x 17" x 10" (432 x 432 x 254 mm)
Our pre-assembled Electric Brewery Control Panels are first wrapped in plastic and then shipped in custom double-walled boxes with polyethylene closed-cell foam inserts to ensure safe arrival.
What kind of wall outlet do I need to tell my electrician to install?
The Standard 30A Electric Brewery Control Panel is usually plugged into a wall outlet using our 30A control panel power cord which requires a standard North American dryer receptacle (4-prong 30A/240V). Ask your electrician to install a NEMA 14-30R receptacle. In the electrical breaker panel, the circuit breaker must be a 30A / 240V 2-pole breaker. We recommend that the breaker include GFI protection.
"I recently ordered the diy version of the brew controller and temperature probes. I started working on the controller first and must say, this kit is extremely well thought out. Buying from you was the way to go and sure took most of the stress away." - Brad W.
"If you want an advanced system, solid consistency, ease of use, long term investment, easy serviceability and a total wow factor, you can't beat The Electric Brewery." (read complete review) - Scott B.
"I jumped right in and my first brew ever was on my self built Kal clone. I had been looking at brew structures from More Beer or that approach for many many years. It was only once I found this site that I went from long term planning to getting out the credit card. Going electric sounded like (and was) such a good option for where I live. I [now] have an awesome, lifetime system. I make some great beer that friends love to enjoy. In fact I just won best of show and placed 1st and 2nd in a few categories at a recent BJCP beer contest (best in show was a variation of the Electric Pale Ale)." - mvakoc
"I decided a few months ago that I just could not dedicate the time needed to build this control panel myself so I reached out to Kal and got things started. Kal and Mike have been more than helpful thus far. The communications along the way, pictures of the progress and emails every week or two really kept me in the loop and feeling assure that the panel was soon to be a reality.The professionalism in which the cabinet has been constructed is a tribute to them. All wires are neat, safely wrapped where needed and very organized. The packaging included all the electronic manuals and guidelines and each item individually wrapped to protect it during shipping. I can't wait to start brewing and provide some feedback on how this functions. I want to Thank Kal and Mike for the great service and communications, not to mention getting serial number 0001. If anyone has any concerns about ordering from these guys, rest assured, you will not be disappointed." - Mike Kennedy
"I decided to order a built control panel, heating elements, power cord and HERMS coil. The build quality of all the products is top notch. The heating elements were easy to install and work great. The control panel is beautiful, and also works great. Part of my job is auditing the design of electronic controls, and the work looks better than a lot of the things I see at my job. It really is as nice as it looks in the pictures. ... The system is a joy to brew on. I feel like I'm in complete control of the process, instead of making calculated guesses and feeling lucky if I hit all my numbers on my old system ... the initial tasting samples taste significantly better than what I was producing on my old setup." (read complete review) - Zeppman
"I am completely glad I made the large jump from an outdoor system to this system because it just plain works. Everything in this system is super repeatable, and the ability to take nearly all the variables out of the equation when you are trying to tweak your beers is beyond invaluable. It has allowed me to brew a recipe multiple times in a row, tweaking one item at a time, until I get it right." - Matt (NattyBrew)
"I just brewed my first batch on my completed system last night. INCREDIBLE! Every aspect of the process is simpler, more enjoyable, and logical. Clean up was easy and accomplished while productive work was being done and my English Cask Bitter is fermenting like crazy." - Feurhund
"What an awesome setup, but I was really impressed when I seen your control panel. I'm an Instrumentation Tech in the Alberta Oilsands specializing in C&SU. I test and troubleshoot these panels as part of my job and most people visiting your site might not realize this, but your panel is of the same quality of what is used in the multi-billion dollar oil industry. Sold." - Ryan
"Having sold industrial automation for years, I think Kal's panel is a deal. If your going to do an electric system, your looking at at least a grand (probably more) [in parts] if you already own pots and other things, plus the value of your time. In the end, safety costs $$$. And Kal has thought that through, so the other grand is for piece of mind that you wont kill yourself. Thank you Kal." - dtfeld
"Having a lot of other projects and responsibilities my time is at a premium. I'm 85% through my Kal Panel build. From the cost of the parts, the time it takes to get a replacement volt meter because you burned yours out using a faulty transformer, etc, etc, the pre-built panel is a tremendous bargain. While I'm sure I'll be proud to have done it myself.....Does anyone want to buy a 85% complete panel with all the parts for $1200? :) " - rvklein
"Since I am going through a 'suped up Kal 60amp build and buy electrical parts all the time, I will throw in my $0.02. This is a smokin' hot deal. I mean, are you kidding yourself? The time and material, alone, is well worth it. I'm surprised this is not selling for $5K. In our business, we get this all the time, "Wow, I can do that for cheaper and it looks easy." Good luck. If you have the money, buy it, it REALLY is a good deal." - Sparky
"Start building one to Kal's specs and you'll find that this assembled panel is a pretty good value. I'm building a simpler version, and easily have more than $1000 in parts alone and still have a few more items, like wire, to buy. Then there's the labor to cut out the panel, etc." - BierHerr
"Having built one of Kal's machines from scratch I can say ... Kal I hate you. If given the option [to purchase pre-assembled and tested] way back when I started I would have jumped on it. I can honestly say I've spent at least 1.5x that price on my Control Panel. Granted I've learned a lot and that's good too...but I still hate you (in a totally "love you" kind of way ;) )" - JayInJersey
"I built a stripped down version (no alarms, no volt meter, no amp meter, no countdown timer, cheaper smaller case, less switches and lights) and I have about $900 in it. I still don't have labels on it. I spent about 20 hours working on it before it was operational. It's quite a task. I would definitely recommend someone to buy this pre-assembled and tested at this price." - bbognerks
"I probably spent a solid 2 weeks on it once I had everything I needed. The hardest part was all the wiring/splicing. Otherwise its a pretty easy build and incredibly satisfying to see working when you're done. However, I would have been very tempted to buy a pre-made panel if they were available at the time. Even at that price its a really good deal. In fact, I'm using my Kal-Clone panel right now as I type this message!" - hatfieldenator (Jason)
"That looks great. After building my own and knowing how much time, money and work is involved, your price is very cheap. Hope you sell a bunch." - Castermmt
"That is a bargain. I think I spent two solid days ordering all the parts. No way will I do that again. Next panel will be purchased with a single click." - milldoggy
Visit our official Electric Brewery Control Panel product thread in our forum.